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One square kilometre holds a 1927 bakery, a 24-hour taco counter, a chef's market and a rooftop with the cathedral in frame. Walk and eat them in this order.

You can no longer climb either pyramid, so the pre-dawn balloon is the only way left to read the plan of Teotihuacan. Here is how the morning works, what it costs, and who should skip it.

A flat two-kilometre grid of art nouveau houses, galleries, markets and late taquerías: how to walk Roma Norte in one day without wasting a meal on it.

The museum has twenty-three halls. A guided route through the Teotihuacán, Mexica and Maya rooms takes two to three hours, and the walk through Chapultepec fills what is left of the day.
























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